Lahano Dolmades (Cabbage Rolls)

Lahano dolmades — cabbage rolls — are Greek comfort food at its finest. The same herbed meat-and-rice filling used for stuffed zucchini, wrapped in tender cabbage leaves and finished with creamy avgolemono sauce.

Preparing the Cabbage

There are two methods to soften the cabbage leaves:

Microwave method (easier):

1. Remove the tough outer leaves and core from the cabbage.
2. Place in a deep glass bowl and cover with a wet kitchen towel.
3. Microwave for 20 minutes, until the leaves are pliable.
4. Carefully peel off the leaves when cool enough to handle.

Boiling method (traditional):

1. Bring a large pot of water to boil.
2. Core the cabbage and place it in the boiling water.
3. Boil for about 20 minutes, or until the center stem is tender.
4. Carefully peel off the leaves.

Making the Filling

1. In a bowl, combine the ground beef, chopped green onions, dill (and/or fennel greens), olive oil, rice, warm water, and salt.

2. Mix everything together with your hands until well combined.

This is the same filling used for stuffed zucchini and youvalakia (meatballs in egg-lemon sauce).

Rolling the Cabbage Rolls

1. Lay a cabbage leaf flat, with the stem end toward you.

2. If the center rib is very thick, shave it down with a knife to make rolling easier.

3. Place about 2 tablespoons of filling near the stem end.

4. Fold the sides of the leaf over the filling, then roll up tightly from the stem end.

5. Place seam-side down in the pot.

Cooking in a Pot or Pressure Cooker

I always cook this in my pressure cooker with a steaming rack. If you do not have a pressure cooker, but do have a steaming rack, you can use it in your pot so that the cabbage won't stick to the pan.

Cooking in a Conventional Pot

1. Arrange the rolled cabbage rolls snugly in a pot, seam-side down. You can make multiple layers.

2. Place a heavy plate on top of the rolls to keep them from unraveling during cooking.

3. Heat water to almost boiling in a separate pot.

4. Pour the hot water over the cabbage rolls to just cover them.

5. Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer.

6. Cook until the rice is done — about 30-40 minutes.

7. Carefully remove the cabbage rolls and reserve the cooking liquid.

Pressure Cooker

1. Put a steaming rack or basket inside the pressure cooker and add water until just below the rack.

2. Arrange the rolled cabbage rolls snugly on the rack, seam-side down. You can make multiple layers.

3. Cover and cook 6 minutes after it starts whistling.

4. Carefully remove the cabbage rolls to a serving platter and reserve the cooking liquid.

Making the Egg-Lemon Sauce

1. Measure your pan juices. For each cup, you'll need 1 egg and the juice of 1 lemon.

2. Beat the egg(s) well in a bowl.

3. Add the lemon juice and beat together.

4. Very slowly, add hot broth to the egg-lemon mixture, whisking constantly. Start with just a spoonful at a time.

5. Once the egg mixture is warmed through, pour it back into the pot with the remaining broth.

6. Whisk continuously over low heat until the sauce thickens. Don't let it boil.

Serving

Arrange the cabbage rolls on a platter and pour the egg-lemon sauce over them. Or serve the sauce on the side.

A crusty bread to soak up the sauce is essential.

Variations

Layered version: Instead of rolling, you can layer the cabbage leaves with the filling in a pot, like a casserole.

Vegetarian: Skip the meat and double the rice. Add more herbs and perhaps some crumbled feta to the filling.

Grape leaves: The same filling wrapped in grape leaves becomes dolmades — often served cold with just lemon juice.

Make-Ahead

Cabbage rolls reheat beautifully. Make the egg-lemon sauce fresh, or reheat the sauce very gently (don't boil or it will curdle).

Freezing tip: Freeze without the avgolemono sauce. Unlike avgolemono soup where the sauce is incorporated in lots of liquid, the thick avgolemono used here won't keep its texture after freezing. Make the sauce fresh when serving.